Paris Fashion and World War Two: Global Diffusion and Nazi Control

PARIS FASHION AND WORLD WAR TWO
Global Diffusion and Nazi Control
PARIS FASHION AND WORLD WAR TWO Global Diffusion and Nazi Control
Table of Contents
	Introduction 13 Marie McLoughlin and Lou Taylor
	Chapter 1 From Berlin to Paris 25 Lou Taylor
	Chapter 2   The Lyon haute nouveauté fashion textile industry during World War Two: design making, e
	Chapter 3   Shortages in Paris 1940-1945: frivolous accessories become essential needs 77 Dominique
	Chapter 4   ‘Much news from the fashion frontier’: Swedish neutrality and diffusion of Paris fashion
	Chapter 5   From Paris haute couture to New York: maintaining the French domination of fashion acros
	Chapter 6   New York and Paris fashions during World War Two: a competitive love affair 139 Sandra S
	Chapter 7 Lisbon as a centre of couture fashion in World War Two and its Paris and international con
	Chapter 8 Fashion in Denmark in the ‘Five Dark Years’ 183 Kirsten Toftegaard
	Chapter 9 The diffusion, reception and use of Paris style information in Brazil  and its couture sal
	Chapter 10 Annexed, neutral and occupied: the worlds of couture in Austria, Switzerland and Belgium
	Chapter 11 1944: London plans to become the ‘meridian’ of world fashion 247 Marie McLoughlin
	Chapter 12 Paris fashion: an international product for an international clientele 271 Marie McLoughl
	Chapter 13 The liberation of Paris and the state of the haute couture industry:  late August 1944-19
	Chapter 14 The end of the war in Europe to 1947: rejuvenating the international business of haute co
	Conclusion 333 Lou Taylor and Marie McLoughlin
	A Letter from Nuremberg, 1946 338 Lou Taylor
	List of Illustrations 341
	Index 349
Acknowledgements
Notes on Contributors
Introduction
	Premise
	The development of our research
	The impetus for this research
	The structure of our book
	Conclusion
	References
Chapter 1 From Berlin to Paris Lou Taylor*
	Nazi Germany
	Nazi high society
	Luxury goods and couture fashion in Nazi Germany
	France and its couture trade in 1940
	Nazi control over French culture
	Otto Abetz and ‘cultural cooperation’
	The Paris couture trade after Occupation: June 1940
	Nazi anti-Semitic legislation
	The reactions of the couturiers
	Wartime couture clientele
	BOF women
	Resistants in the world of French couture
	References
	Endnotes
Chapter 2 The Lyon haute nouveauté fashion textile industry during World War Two: design making, exh
	Introduction
	Context
	Lyon at the start of World War Two
	Organisation of the French textile industries  under Nazi control
	Lyon silk and synthetic textile design and manufacture under Nazi control: 1940-1944
	Replacement textiles
	Designing Lyon fabrics
	Vichyist designs
	The exhibition of couture and haute nouveauté textiles
	Exhibitions abroad and import/export
	Spain
	Switzerland
	The end of the war
	References
	Endnotes
Chapter 3 Shortages in Paris 1940-1945: frivolous accessories become essential needs Dominique Veill
	Economic and political contexts
	Accessories and their multiple wartime functions
	Handbags
	Gloves
	Stockings
	Jewellery
	Head Scarves
	Shoes and hats and creative imagination
	Hats
	Conclusion
	References
	Endnotes
Chapter 4 ‘Much news from the fashion frontier’: Swedish neutrality and diffusion of Paris fashion d
	Introduction
	The Swedish policy of neutrality
	Paris fashion industry under occupation
	Censored fashion information
	Parisian war fashion
	Practical yet stylish war collections
	Changes in Parisian fashion style
	Following Paris Occupation couture style  development in Sweden
	Conclusion
	References
Chapter 5 From Paris haute couture to New York: maintaining the French domination of fashion across
	Introduction
	Saving French Vogue and Jardin des Modes  in the Phoney War period
	The break of the Exodus
	French Vogue and Jardin des Modes under  Nazi censorship regulations
	The political and economic dimension of fashion
	Working without having to say ‘please’ to the Germans
	Defending Parisian fashion in New York against accusations of collaboration
	From fashion to political activities
	Conclusion
	References
	Endnotes
Chapter 6 New York and Paris fashions during World War Two: a competitive love affair Sandra Stansbe
	Before World War Two
	1939: the war in Europe begins
	What shall we do without Paris?
	After the Liberation
	References
	Endnotes
Chapter 7 Lisbon as a centre of couture fashion in World War Two and its Paris and international con
	Introduction
	Lisbon in neutral Portugal: the great junction  of Europe
	Arriving to ‘another world’: Portugal 1940-1944
	Leaving
	Fashion leaders in Lisbon
	Fashion in Portugal in World War Two
	Paris couture in Lisbon
	Lisbon and Porto couture in wartime
	Couture millinery from Paris to Lisbon
	Portuguese fashion magazines
	The Liberation of Paris draws near
	Conclusion
	References
	Endnotes
Chapter 8 Fashion in Denmark in the ‘Five Dark Years’ Kirsten Toftegaard
	Introduction
	The influence of Paris
	Momentum for Danish couture
	Home diligence sweeps across the country: shortage of materials and the use of alternative materials
	Silent resistance
	The Liberation
	Conclusion
	Sources
	References
	Endnotes
Chapter 9 The diffusion, reception and use of Paris  style information in Brazil and its couture sal
	Casa Canadá
	Mena Fiala as sales director of Casa Canadá
	Fashion press and social reportage in Brazil  during World War Two
	Impressions of a fashion show
	Conclusion
	Acknowledgments
	References
	Sources
	Endnotes
Chapter 10 Annexed, neutral and occupied: the worlds of couture in Austria, Switzerland and Belgium
	Introduction
	Austria
	Austrian fashion and couture
	Switzerland, the setting for Swiss fashion and  textiles, 1939-1945: neutrality and relationships  w
	Swiss fashion textile exports
	Swiss wartime fashion textiles
	Album: Étude 1, Textiles Suisses pour la Mode/ÉTÉ 1943
	The world of couture in wartime Switzerland
	Paris couture in Switzerland
	Switzerland: Conclusion
	Belgium
	The couture salons of Hirsch and Norine
	Conclusion
	References
	Endnotes
Chapter 11 1944: London plans to become the ‘meridian’ of world fashion Marie McLoughlin
	The Board of Education
	The Board of Trade
	Board of Trade quest for ‘continental élan’
	West Cumberland Silk Mills
	Kangol
	The Aschers
	Propaganda textiles and silk squares
	Hans and Elsbeth Juda
	Paris couturiers in London
	The Incorporated Society of London Designers
	The South American collection: textiles,  couture and propaganda
	British fashions and the United States of America
	The Utility Scheme
	Conclusion: ‘creativity as capital’
	References
	Endnotes
Chapter 12 Paris fashion: an international product  for an international clientele Marie McLoughlin,
	Worth and the founding of the Paris couture
	Paquin
	Creed
	Wartime Paris couture shown abroad  before the Occupation
	Molyneux
	Piguet
	Schiaparelli
	Mainbocher
	Balenciaga
	Conclusion
	References
	Archives
	Endnotes
Postscript:  Captain Edward Molyneux: Art collector* Nancy H. Yeide
	Endnotes
Chapter 13 The liberation of Paris and the state  of the haute couture industry:  late August 1944-1
	The Battle for Paris and the aftermath of Liberation
	Democracy, social division and épuration
	The row over Occupation style, late August 1945 to 1946: ‘subtle sabotage’?
	The first post-Liberation collections and  the continuing scandal
	Efforts to resolve the style scandal and overcome accusations of loss of taste
	References
	Endnotes
Chapter 14 The end of the war in Europe to 1947: rejuvenating the international business  of haute c
	Thèâtre de la Mode
	1946 style
	Neutralising the scandal: the value  of luxury couture exports
	Late 1945-1947: international private clientele  begin to return
	New style and new business approach: Dior and the Corolle line collection of 1947
	References
	Endnotes
Conclusion Lou Taylor and Marie McLoughlin
	Paris couture style diffusion throughout  the Occupation
	Postscript
	References
	Endnotes
List of Illustrations
Index